Before heading to Isla Holbox, I’d read about all these amazing experiences people had there, looked at photos of sprawling white sand beaches, Instagram selfies of hammocks over the water, and cute cafes surrounded by palm trees and sand-covered streets. Even so, while boarding the ferry in Chiquila — the only place from which you can currently get to Holbox — I tried very hard to keep my expectations in check, yet I couldn’t help but feel just a teensy bit of excitement at the thought of our first beach “break”. In a place that many had described as close to paradise no less.
While I wouldn’t say Isla Holbox has the best beaches ever (I will always be partial to Australian beaches because that’s my home) the island has a rustic, but beautiful charm all its own.
If you’re looking to relax, Isla Holbox is your place
Aside from a few work vehicles, no cars are allowed on the island’s unpaved streets. Which is fine, because short of tacos stuffed with silver, everything you could want is within walking distance. Colourful murals and street art adorn most of the buildings around town. Cafes and restaurants abound. You can find anything from tequila bars to boutique clothing stores, a surprising amount of Italian food, and an unsurprising amount of ice cream and gelato. We also found a cafe that makes great espressos (says Justin), and smoothie bowls (says me).
For those who are determined to find some peace and quiet, skip the beach clubs on the main strip and walk along the sand bank to the far side of the island. Depending on the time of year it shouldn’t be difficult to find your own private stretch of sand. If you want to venture even further out to some of the more remote beaches on Isla Holbox, you could also rent a bike or, for the truly lazy, hire a golf cart to take you there.
Watching the sunset is another popular activity amongst the people that travel to Isla Holbox. When the sky starts to turn shades of dusty pink and orange you can find everyone gathering on the pier to watch the sun go down.
If you’re not looking to relax… Isla Holbox could still be your place?
Besides regular beach things like lounging about on the sand, splashing about in the water, or lounging in hammocks over the water, weeeelll… Let’s just say no one goes to Holbox for the adventure. Unless you consider climbing into a hammock a few beers in as “adventurous”. That isn’t to say you can’t have some fun doing things that don’t involve lounging on the island.
If you’re around for more than a couple days, you can take kite surfing lessons (I hear it takes a few to get the hang of it), or a boat tour around the nearby islands.
Other time-sensitive activities include a bioluminescence tour, where they take you out in a boat from midnight onwards to see microorganisms that glow in the water. There’s a much better chance of seeing this phenomenon in the months of July to September just before a new moon and when the night sky is darkest.
Also to do during those months is whale shark watching. Holbox becomes super busy during these months as it’s apparently one of the best places you can go to take a tour to watch, swim with, or paddle board around the whales that congregate in nearby waters during their migration. As we were visiting in November we missed both of these entirely. But I would absolutely go back again just for the experience!
I’m sure by now you’ve noticed that these are all water-based activities. If you don’t like those, then yeah, maybe Isla Holbox might not be for you. I would recommend you spend some time in Merida instead. 😬
Even relaxing places have their downsides:
Isla Holbox is an up and coming tourist destination in Mexico, so depending on where you stay, during the day you will likely hear the sounds of some construction going on nearby. I’m a bit sad to think that the island will be even more developed over the next few years as I came to appreciate the remote-ness and internet that cut out more often than not.
We also noticed a few potholes in the streets, likely a product of vehicles carrying stuff for all the new developments, and of course the fact that Holbox is all dirt roads. Generally potholes aren’t a vacation dealbreaker, but these holes would suspiciously be full of swampy looking water, despite there not being any rain that day or even the night before. When walking we always gave a wide berth to any Mystery Puddle Water we came across.
The important info
How to get there
You’ll need to take a ferry from Chiquila. We took a bus there from Valladolid, but many travellers head there easily from Tulum, Cancun, and Playa del Carmen. Once you reach the port you can choose from either 9 Hermanos or the Holbox Express that depart in an alternating schedule every 30 minutes. It’s an easy 15 minute ride on a large catamaran and 200 pesos each way.
Where we stayed
Justin and I stayed at Hostel Che Holbox. I can’t speak for the dorms as we stayed in a private room, but that room was great. Huge, comfy bed, air conditioning, and our own bathroom. The hostel also had events happening most days like taco nights and BBQs. I’d recommend it if you want to stay in a place with a pool and a party vibe (but bring earplugs if you want to get a good nights sleep). Even though you can walk everywhere quite easily in Holbox, the hostel is a bit further from the beach and the rest of the town. Thankfully it’s very close to the port. Handy if you sleep in and are rushing to catch your ferry off the island in the morning!
A quick note about $$$ on the island
If you’re planning a trip to Isla Holbox, you should know there are only a couple ATMs that dispense pesos on the island. And they are almost always either broken or out of cash. On top of that, most places don’t accept credit cards. I didn’t bring enough with me and it was a huge pain trying to ask around to locate one, only to wait in a queue then be told by the guy at the front it was out of pesos. Or that time we found one with no one around, only to discover it was unplugged. 😑
There are a few in working condition that provide U.S. dollars only, but the places that accept them on the island are few and far between. If you’re really in a bind you could withdraw some dollars and take them to a money exchange counter.
Cash money problems aside, Isla Holbox is absolutely worth visiting if you want a place to recover after spending too many nights partying in Playa del Carmen, or if you’re determined to relax in a place that isn’t crowded like Cancun. Just plan ahead and bring a bit more cash than you think you need, and go with an open mind and your bathing suit. And don’t step in those puddles.
